Rising demand for organic cosmetic ingredients is driving beauty brands to expand their sourcing strategies, and marine ecosystems are proving to be a reliable supply base. Scientific advances are accelerating the growth of blue biotechnology, but environmental protection and responsible sourcing remain essential to ensure that marine resources are used sustainably.
Data from Innova Market Insights suggests a 13% increase in personal care product launches that mention marine, marine or marine claims and ingredients. Over half of these marine-derived personal care products were introduced in Europe.
Insights into personal care talks to Givaudan Active Beauty experts about why ocean-derived ingredients are gaining traction and how they're shaping the beauty industry's next wave of innovation.
“Consumers are showing great interest in marine ingredients, which they often view as safe, effective and trendy. Blue ingredients are often associated with health and naturalness,” says Justine Catala, CMI manager at Givaudan Active Beauty.
“The term blue biotechnology, used for marine biotechnologies that specifically procure marine organisms or marine resources, is associated with the biodiversity associated with different marine ecosystems. Blue biotechnology focuses on valuing the immense and largely unknown potential of the seas and oceans.”
Blue is gaining ground
Growing environmental awareness, demand for natural ingredients and scientific advances are creating opportunities for marine ecosystems to serve as a solution in the beauty industry. According to Catala, these forces are changing the way brands approach sourcing and formulation.
“Marine-derived ingredients are viewed as sustainable and environmentally friendly by a significant proportion of consumers. As consumers become more environmentally conscious, demand for marine-derived skincare solutions continues to increase, making marine ingredients a key enabler of the future of beauty,” she explains.
Catala says consumers' long-standing purchasing patterns reflect their attraction to ocean-derived active ingredients.
“The presence of natural or organic ingredients is still one of the main purchasing factors for consumers,” she says. “Sea-based ingredients meet this demand as they are considered more natural and less processed compared to synthetic alternatives.”
Catala points out that these ingredients also deliver measurable results in skin care. “Marine organisms such as algae and seaweed possess unique properties, including high levels of antioxidants, anti-inflammatory effects and skin-rejuvenating properties.”
Responsible harvesting is crucial to protecting marine biodiversity as demand increases.“This also takes into account the latest trends in multi-benefit or all-in-one skin care products.”
Regenerative procurement
Adhering to environmentally conscious practices is becoming increasingly important when sourcing marine-derived ingredients. “Modern consumers are increasingly demanding beauty solutions that respect marine ecosystems and contribute to the health of the planet,” says Catala.
She adds that brands need to show concrete progress rather than making marketing promises. “Consumers expect brands to not only claim ocean sustainability, but also demonstrate it through measurable impact.”
Alice Balloffet Belveyre, Global Category Manager of Biotech Actives at Givaudan Active Beauty, tells us that the core sustainability principles in the company's portfolio are based on a circular and responsible sourcing program. The program controls the traceability of raw materials and the company's community impact.
She points out that at sea level these principles are reflected in three priorities: avoiding overfishing, reducing the ecological footprint and preserving marine biodiversity.
Balloffet Belveyre highlights Givaudan's Evernityl as an example of the three priorities. “Laminaria hyperborea, used in the Evernityl production process, has been sustainably harvested by seaweed harvesters in Brittany, France, and has specific licenses from the Hauts-de-France Regional Committee for Fisheries and Aquaculture.”
“The Regional Fisheries Committee has adopted regulations for the issuance of these licenses to ensure the sustainable management of algae resources in the territorial waters and to organize the harvest in a collaborative, fair and sustainable manner.”
The harvest cycle is intentionally slow to support ecosystem renewal. “The harvesting process is strictly regulated and ensures ecological balance by leaving the sites fallow for three to four years after harvest,” she adds.
Once the algae are collected, they are transformed through a circular production method. “Evernityl is a byproduct of a biostimulant used in agriculture,” says Balloffet Belveyre.
Marine-sourced ingredients are becoming increasingly important as consumers look for natural, sustainable solutions.Catala adds that developing marine sources aligns with Givaudan's goal of reducing its environmental footprint. “As they grow, macroalgae harness the power of sunlight and bind CO2 to produce their most important components,” she explains. “In this way, they help reduce atmospheric carbon released by industrial activities.”
Ethical considerations
Marine research is increasingly focused on protecting ecosystems while supporting local livelihoods. Scientists are studying how novel marine-derived materials can provide both environmental and socioeconomic benefits.
A recent study published in Applied food researchA study on jellyfish collagen, another emerging marine biomaterial, found that “shorter polypeptides and peptides derived from jellyfish collagen exhibit better water solubility, excellent hydrophilicity, and improved skin penetration compared to native collagen.”
The researchers argue that jellyfish collagen could provide a sustainable alternative to mammalian sources and could even “improve economic opportunities for coastal communities.”
Additionally, the researchers state that collagen derived from marine species represents a blueprint for the development of “ethically sound, ecologically balanced, and commercially viable biomaterials.”
Balloffet Belveyre emphasizes that ethical marine sourcing must protect local economies and traditional harvesting knowledge. “Ethical marine sourcing means protecting both ecosystems and human communities involved in resource extraction,” she says.
Supporting harvesters is an essential part of this approach. Balloffet Belveyre points out that Givaudan prioritizes “collaboration with local workers to preserve traditional livelihoods.”
Macroalgae and algae provide antioxidant benefits to modern formulations.Diverse formulations
The growing interest in marine-derived ingredients also extends to less conventional areas of marine science. For example, research published in ACS Omega shows how molecules produced by bacteria in the gut microbiota of sea bream can support skin lightening and wrinkle reduction.
The study authors point out that tyrosinase is essential in two phases of melanin synthesis. “Our results suggest that these compounds effectively reduce tyrosinase activity, indicating their potential to alleviate hyperpigmentation in human skin.”
The same marine-derived molecules also showed strong inhibitory effects on collagenase.
Blue biotechnology is also being researched for sun protection, barrier support and nail care. A study published in cosmetics Recently, red and brown macroalgae were found to contain UV-absorbing compounds. These compounds have photoprotection benefits that are also applicable to natural UV protection formulas.
“This work contributes to the growing field of marine-derived sunscreens and offers a promising alternative in line with 'blue beauty' and environmentally conscious formulation strategies,” the authors said.
Additionally, nail care manufacturer Fiabila previously launched SPF50+ Base and Top, a hybrid manicure treatment enriched with sea plant extract. The treatment reacts to strong direct UV radiation from outdoor activities and gel curing lamps, which can cause discoloration, brittleness and premature aging of the nail bed.
The SPF50+ base and top treatment uses seaweed extract as antioxidants, including vitamins C and E. These antioxidants combat oxidative stress caused by UV radiation, pollution and smoking.