Life cycle evaluation (LCA) is often used to measure environmental impact, but their limits are often misunderstood or abused in the clothing sector. Beth Jensen from Textile Exchange offers a clear perspective on how “LCA+” can help the industry make smarter and more credible decisions.
Design fulfills data: a shift in the clothing industry
The outdoor and the wider clothing and the fashion industry have long been rooted in creativity, art and design innovation. However, the development of sustainability in the industry in recent years has also obliged the industry to develop and deepen its understanding of data and science in order to unpack the ongoing question: What is “sustainable?”
In connection with the work of Textil Exchange, this question focuses especially on materials. The life cycle evaluation (LCA) is a well-known framework that is used by the outdoor and clothing industry and beyond, in order to measure certain environmental effects of materials (and products) in your life cycle at particular and most frequently, and most often the emissions of greenhouse gas (THG).
Why traditional LCA is neglected
The use of LCA can offer useful knowledge in this way, but the method has many limits that must be understood carefully. The textile exchange promotes a “LCA+” approach to measuring the effects of materials -a broader view that goes beyond the Standard -LCA methods. It includes other impact areas such as biodiversity, soil health, animal welfare and livelihood.
Although the general ability of the industry to use and understand LCA data in a scientifically accurate way have improved in recent years, and although the intentions are often good, the abuse of LCA is still common. This is done across the board – from journalists and influencers to brands, retailers, suppliers and producers.
Calling textile Exchange for integrity
In our recently published paper, Textil Exchange ensures integrity when using life cycle assessment data and requires the industry-wide responsibility when using LCA data, including the following:
Not:
- Compare data between LCA studies that have not been adapted to differences.
- Compare data between fiber or material types or regions – these are not “apples with apples” due to differences in production systems.
- Decide not to work with procurement regions or producers that are only based on LCA data.
Do:
- Use LCA data to find ways to improve the production systems in your current supply chains. Try to remedy them through teamwork and direct investments.
- Use emission numbers from LCA studies to estimate the effects on the GHG effects and model the potential effects of changes, but only if they are carried out with a solid scientific approach.
- Follow an “LCA+” approach to fully understand the effects.
- Make sure that everyone in your company who works with LCA data has enough scientific skills to do this correctly.
Why LCA+ leads to better decisions
The textile exchange is clear: the industry has to go further than just traditional LCA. Understanding the full image of effects means more than just emissions – especially if these numbers are used to make major decisions.
By improving the use of LCA and by introducing LCA+, companies can pass from basic reporting to real, informed actions.
By integrating LCA into other impact indicators, the LCA+ approach ensures that sustainability claims are not only more credible, but also more coordinated with the real needs of ecosystems and communities.
Further reading: LCAS still does not fit natural fibers. Digital product passes can inherit the problem
About textile exchange
The textile exchange is a global non-profit organization that has a positive effect on the climate and nature in fashion, textile and clothing industry. The organization works closely with the stakeholders to standardize reporting, improve material procurement and promote transparency.
Visit the textile Exchange website.
Lead photo: Carl van der Linde | Textile exchange
